We enjoy eating at the Lockview Restaurant, downtown, which is right across the street from the locks, and if a big freighter goes into the first lock you can see it right from the restaurant windows. The restaurant food is sometimes really great and other times just so-so.
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| A freighter in the first lock |
We LOVE watching the freighters so that's what we did for two days. Sparky loves talking to people at the observation deck right there at the locks, finding out where they come from and throwing out a few tidbits about the freighters she finds out from the app, Marine Traffic.
The freighters are nicknamed the "Salties" (for the narrower ones entering from the Atlantic Ocean thru the St. Lawrence Seaway). They are smaller because the Seaway's lock system is narrower than the Soo Locks. The "Salties" typically measure up to 740 feet in length and have a more pointed bow. They also have multiple deck cranes. The "Lakers" are exclusively freshwater ships that can never leave the Great Lakes so they are the massive, 1000+ footers. We love hearing their booming horns as they pass through the St. Mary's River.
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| St. Mary's River at Veterans' Park |
Our other favorite spot to view the freighters is at the Veterans' Park on the outskirts of town, where the St. Mary's River narrows signficantly and the freighters come by a stone's throw from the shore--at least that's what it feels like! The Veterans' Park is just about right next door to the Aune Osborn RV park.
We went to the park on three different occasions to watch the freighters and a little boy of about 10 was there each time waving a Canadian flag and hoping the big boys would blow their horns if he made the universal gesture of pulling his fist down in a pumping motion. Usually the freighters sound the horn when moving through the river channel but not this time.
For our last night in the Soo, we chose to eat at the Kewadin Casino, at the Black Rock Bar and Grill. The meal was terrific! We did not try our luck at the casino, it's just not our thing, but we do enjoy a good meal. It's a beautiful casino, lots of wood inside and a cool art gallery as you enter. Check out the one arm bandit machines! There were other examples of native american artwork displayed in the hallway leading to the casino.
| Benny's Cafe |
Lodging is not cheap for a lakefront room--276.00. The only drawback of our one night stay was midges, those pesky little flying insects that swarm in the summer. There are two types--biting and non-biting. People refer to the non-biting ones as gnats. The biting ones are no-see-ums. AND, locals call the larger non-biting ones muffleheads. (!) Sparky would love to know where that came from! If you encounter the biting species, it is the females who bite. The midges are related to mosquitoes and their bites are worse than a mosquito because their mouthparts slice into your skin. Tiny, but painful! There were clouds of them here and there and seemingly everywhere. It's that time in the summer where you are going to encounter bugs and more bugs in northern Michigan.
| Huron longhouse |
There is a Museum of Ojibwa Culture in St. Ignace and it is amazing. It sits on the grounds of a 17th century Huron village and has the burial grave of Father Marquette, a Jesuit missionary and explorer, and an authentic traditional longhouse on the grounds with beautiful metal sculptures depicting the roles in the clans. Sparky loved seeing the costumes of the dancers, especially the jingle dancer costume. The jingle cones were originally made from snuff and chewing tobacco tins rolled into cones. There are between 200-365 cones on a dress and when the dancer moves, it creates a very melodic tone. One foot is always touching the ground, maintaining a physical connection to the earth. The jingle dance is very popular at pow-wows and often performed to bring spiritual healing and pride at stressful times and events.
Also inside there are immersive exhibits, personal stories and recordings-some that detail the treatment of the tribes through the years and the government's efforts to take away their culture. Very interesting yet disturbing reading at the same time.
If you are ever in St. Ignace, check out Jose's Cantina, right next door to the Breakers. The food is great, but we didn't get a chance to eat there. It comes highly recommended from family members. We did eat at the Gangplank Pub and Grub, with a protected outdoor patio and thoroughly enjoyed the atmosphere, the food, and our cheeky waiter.
The next morning, we headed for home, planning to drive all the way, and we did! A six hour drive from Mackinac Island for a distance of 343 miles. Gaylord, MI is on the way home, and there is a resident elk herd there in a large enclosed area, should you want to see some Michigan wildlife.....We wanted to get home and relax so we didn't stop this time.
The trip was wonderful, the weather was great, and now it's time to settle down for a bit and enjoy (?) the summer...Ahhhh-h-h-h...the nineties....Uh, Eldy, when is our next trip up north? Sparky wants to know.....Until next time....
Sparky and Eldo





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